{"id":"nirmal-purja","type":"person","url":"https://diginpl.com/people/nirmal-purja","language":"en","name":"Nirmal Purja","name_en":"Nirmal Purja","name_ne":"निर्मल पुर्जा","description":"Nepali‑born English mountaineer (1983–2026)","headline":"Nepali‑born English mountaineer (1983–2026)","also_known_as":[],"summary":"Nirmal Purja, also known as Nims or Nimsdai, was a Nepali-British mountaineer. Before pursuing a career in mountaineering, he served in the British Army with the Brigade of Gurkhas and later in the Special Boat Service (SBS), the special forces unit of the Royal Navy.","summary_more":[],"facts":[{"key":"born","label":"Born","values":[{"text":"25 July 1983","date":"1983-07-25"}],"source":{"label":"Wikidata","url":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q64027141#P569"}},{"key":"birthplace","label":"Place of birth","values":[{"text":"Dana","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q3430565","page":"https://diginpl.com/places/dana-nepal"}],"source":{"label":"Wikidata","url":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q64027141#P19"}},{"key":"died","label":"Died","values":[{"text":"30 July 2026","date":"2026-07-30"}],"source":{"label":"Wikidata","url":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q64027141#P570"}},{"key":"deathplace","label":"Place of death","values":[{"text":"Broad Peak","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q180996"}],"source":{"label":"Wikidata","url":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q64027141#P20"}},{"key":"citizenship","label":"Citizenship","values":[{"text":"Nepal","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q837"},{"text":"United Kingdom","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q145"}],"source":{"label":"Wikidata","url":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q64027141#P27"}},{"key":"occupation","label":"Occupation","values":[{"text":"mountaineer","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q9149093"},{"text":"writer","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q36180"},{"text":"mountain guide","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q819677"},{"text":"soldier","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q4991371"}],"source":{"label":"Wikidata","url":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q64027141#P106"}},{"key":"website","label":"Official website","values":[{"text":"nimsdai.com","url":"https://www.nimsdai.com/"}],"source":{"label":"Wikidata","url":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q64027141#P856"}},{"key":"awards","label":"Awards","values":[{"text":"Member of the Order of the British Empire","wikidata":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q12201526","date":"2018"}],"source":{"label":"Wikidata","url":"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q64027141#P166"}},{"key":"x","label":"X 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Purja","publisher":"RedBull","date":null},{"url":"https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/adventure/2020/12/the-nepalese-mountaineer-who-is-taking-a-spiritual-view-to-new-heights","title":"How a Nepali climber with a \"freakish physiology\" stormed the world of high-altitude mountaineering","publisher":"National Geographic","date":"12 January 2021"}]},{"text":"He was the youngest of five children born to Nanda Bahadur Purja and Purna Kumari.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.thetimes.com/uk/obituaries/article/nirmal-purja-obituary-death-avalanche-dj9pffn0k","title":"Nirmal Purja obituary: intrepid mountaineer with extreme ambition","publisher":"The Times","date":"1 August 2026"}]},{"text":"His father served as a Gurkha soldier in the Indian Army, while his mother came from a farming background.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/adventure/2020/12/the-nepalese-mountaineer-who-is-taking-a-spiritual-view-to-new-heights","title":"How a Nepali climber with a \"freakish physiology\" stormed the world of high-altitude mountaineering","publisher":"National Geographic","date":"12 January 2021"}]},{"text":"Their inter-caste marriage was frowned upon because they came from different ethnic backgrounds, leaving both financially and socially cut off from their respective families.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/adventure/2020/12/the-nepalese-mountaineer-who-is-taking-a-spiritual-view-to-new-heights","title":"How a Nepali climber with a \"freakish physiology\" stormed the world of high-altitude mountaineering","publisher":"National Geographic","date":"12 January 2021"}]},{"text":"When Purja was four years old, his family moved to southern lowlands of Nepal, known as the Terai, and settled in Chitwan District.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/adventure/2020/12/the-nepalese-mountaineer-who-is-taking-a-spiritual-view-to-new-heights","title":"How a Nepali climber with a \"freakish physiology\" stormed the world of high-altitude mountaineering","publisher":"National Geographic","date":"12 January 2021"}]},{"text":"His three older brothers helped fund his education at an English-speaking boarding school.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/adventure/2020/12/the-nepalese-mountaineer-who-is-taking-a-spiritual-view-to-new-heights","title":"How a Nepali climber with a \"freakish physiology\" stormed the world of high-altitude mountaineering","publisher":"National Geographic","date":"12 January 2021"}]}]},{"id":"career","title":"Career","items":[{"text":"Purja joined the Brigade of Gurkhas in 2003 and was accepted into the Royal Navy's Special Boat Service (SBS) in 2009, becoming the first Gurkha to join the elite British unit.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.redbull.com/au-en/project-possible-nirmal-purja-climbing-worlds-highest-peaks-record","title":"Meet the man who climbed 14 mountains in six months and stunned the world","publisher":"Red Bull","date":null},{"url":"https://www.nytimes.com/2021/12/01/movies/14-peaks-nothing-is-impossible-review.html","title":"'14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible' Review: Climbing at a Breakneck Pace","publisher":"The New York Times","date":"1 December 2021"}]},{"text":"He served in the SBS as a cold-weather warfare specialist.","sources":[{"url":"https://sportstar.thehindu.com/other-sports/nepal-nirmal-purja-mountaineer-project-possible-mountaineering-record-reinhold-messner/article29823944.ece","title":"Nirmal Purja: Nepali climber carving mountaineering history","publisher":"Sportstar","date":null}]},{"text":"Purja said that he was involved in all theatres of war in which Britain was engaged and that he was wounded when a sniper bullet struck the butt of his rifle, narrowly missing his neck.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/adventure/2020/12/the-nepalese-mountaineer-who-is-taking-a-spiritual-view-to-new-heights","title":"How a Nepali climber with a \"freakish physiology\" stormed the world of high-altitude mountaineering","publisher":"National Geographic","date":"12 January 2021"}]},{"text":"In 2018 he resigned from the SBS to focus full-time on high-altitude mountaineering.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/adventure/2020/12/the-nepalese-mountaineer-who-is-taking-a-spiritual-view-to-new-heights","title":"How a Nepali climber with a \"freakish physiology\" stormed the world of high-altitude mountaineering","publisher":"National Geographic","date":"12 January 2021"}]},{"text":"He had become an important contributor to his family while serving in the military and he was giving up his army pension, which he described as \"a life-changing\" amount of money.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/59482665","title":"BBC Sport: Nimsdai Purja","publisher":"BBC Sport","date":"30 November 2021"},{"url":"https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/adventure/2020/12/the-nepalese-mountaineer-who-is-taking-a-spiritual-view-to-new-heights","title":"How a Nepali climber with a \"freakish physiology\" stormed the world of high-altitude mountaineering","publisher":"National Geographic","date":"12 January 2021"}]},{"text":"On 18 May 2014, he made his first ascent of an eight-thousander by summiting Dhaulagiri (8,167 metres) during a return trip of only 15 days.","sources":[{"url":"http://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/nirmal-purja-summits-5th-eight-thousander-in-12-days-ends-1st-phase-of-project-possible","title":"Nirmal Purja summits 5th eight-thousander in 12 days, ends 1st phase of 'Project Possible'","publisher":"Dreamwanderlust.com.com","date":"24 May 2019"}]}]},{"id":"decisions","title":"Key decisions and achievements","items":[{"text":"On 4 October 2024, Purja broke two world records after summiting Shishapangma: the fastest time to summit all 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen (2 years and 5 months), and the fastest to summit all 14 peaks both with and without supplemental oxygen.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nimsdai.com/post/nimsdai-completes-14-peaks-without-the-use-of-supplemental-oxygen","title":"Nimsdai completes 14 peaks, without the use of supplemental oxygen","publisher":"NIMSDAI","date":null}]},{"text":"On 21 October 2024, he became the first person to summit the 14 peaks and the Seven Summits both with and without supplemental oxygen.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nimsdai.com/post/nimsdai-nims-purja-completes-the-seven-summits","title":"Nimsdai \"Nims\" Purja completes the Seven Summits","publisher":"NIMSDAI","date":null}]},{"text":"In 2025, Purja announced his latest challenge, the Hat-Trick Challenge, aiming to complete the 14 Peaks and the Seven Summits for the third time.","sources":[{"url":"https://everestchronicle.com/nimsdai-purja-summits-kanchenjunga-launches-his-historic-hat-trick-challenge","title":"Nimsdai Purja summits Kanchenjunga, launches his historic 'Hat Trick Challenge'","publisher":"everestchronicle.com","date":"21 May 2025"}]},{"text":"He said he would self‑fund the project, with all donations and sponsorship money supporting the Nimsdai Foundation.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.myrepublica.nagariknetwork.com/news/nims-purja-eyes-for-14-peaks-hat-trick-and-seven-summits-for-charity-679358a7b02b0.html","title":"Nims Purja eyes for 14 peaks hat-trick and seven summits for charity","publisher":"www.myrepublica.nagariknetwork.com","date":"8 August 2024"}]},{"text":"Its most high‑profile project is the Big Mountain Clean Up, launched to remove waste from the high peaks.","sources":[{"url":"https://homegrown.co.in/homegrown-explore/trash-free-mountains-a-foundation-on-their-way-to-clean-the-himalayas","title":"Trash-Free Mountains: A Foundation On Their Way To Clean The Himalayas","publisher":"Homegrown","date":"26 April 2022"},{"url":"https://www.lonelyplanet.com/news/nepal-himalaya-clean-up","title":"The record-breaking Nepali mountaineer cleaning up the Himalaya","publisher":"Lonely Planet","date":null}]},{"text":"This was his 50th successful ascent of an 8,000m peak and his 22nd without supplemental oxygen.","sources":[{"url":"https://english.nepalpress.com/2025/07/09/nimsdai-sets-new-world-record/","title":"Nimsdai sets new world record","publisher":"Nepal Press","date":null}]}]},{"id":"controversies","title":"Controversies and criticism","items":[{"text":"In May 2024, The New York Times reported on allegations of sexual misconduct against Purja levied by Finnish mountaineer Lotta Hintsa and Californian physician April Leonardo.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nytimes.com/2024/05/31/sports/mountaineering-sexual-harassment-abuse-nims-purja.html","title":"For Female Climbers, Dangers Go Beyond Avalanches and Storms","publisher":"The New York Times","date":"31 May 2024"},{"url":"https://adventuremagazine.co.nz/if-absolute-power-corrupts-absolutely-does-absolute-fame-do-the-same/","title":"If absolute power corrupts absolutely – does absolute 'fame' do the same?","publisher":"Adventure Magazine","date":"8 June 2024"},{"url":"https://www.theguardian.com/world/2026/aug/11/nirmal-purja-obituary","title":"Nirmal Purja obituary","publisher":"The Guardian","date":"2026-08-11"}]},{"text":"Since the incidents took place outside their home countries, both Hintsa and Leonardo “felt powerless” and did not contact the law enforcement about their experience.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nytimes.com/2024/05/31/sports/mountaineering-sexual-harassment-abuse-nims-purja.html","title":"For Female Climbers, Dangers Go Beyond Avalanches and Storms","publisher":"The New York Times","date":"31 May 2024"},{"url":"https://adventuremagazine.co.nz/if-absolute-power-corrupts-absolutely-does-absolute-fame-do-the-same/","title":"If absolute power corrupts absolutely – does absolute 'fame' do the same?","publisher":"Adventure Magazine","date":"8 June 2024"}]},{"text":"Grivel and Scarpa suspended their marketing and promotional activities featuring the mountaineer.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.independent.co.uk/asia/south-asia/nirmal-nims-purja-sexual-assault-nepal-everest-ban-b2558593.html","title":"Nepali lawmaker wants elite mountaineer accused of sexual assault banned from Everest","publisher":"The Independent","date":"2024-06-08"},{"url":"https://www.dw.com/en/women-mountaineers-say-sexual-harassment-runs-deep/a-69274973","title":"Women mountaineers say sexual harassment runs deep","publisher":"dw.com","date":null}]},{"text":"In 2025, the Nepal Press Council blacklisted The Himalayan Times and removed its government-funded advertising following an investigation into \"imbalanced\" articles about Purja and his companies, Skydive Nimsdai and Elite Exped.","sources":[{"url":"https://nepalverifiednews.com/news/press-council-of-nepal-takes-historic-action-himal","title":"Press Council Nepal Takes Historic Action: Himalayan Times Blacklisted For False Reporting On Famous Mountaineer Nirmal Purja","publisher":"NepalverifiedNews","date":null}]},{"text":"In response, Purja and his companies filed a complaint with the Nepal Press Council, prompting an investigation.","sources":[{"url":"https://arthasansar.com/news/67104","title":"निर्मल पुर्जा विरुद्ध फेक समाचार लेखेको आधारमा प्रेस काउन्सिलद्वारा हिमालयन टाइम्स कालोसूचीमा","publisher":"Arthasansar","date":null}]},{"text":"On 20 February 2025, the Council ruled that the publication had breached the Journalistic Code of Conduct, stating that the articles were \"unilateral and imbalanced, aimed at creating hatred and discrimination, and potentially causing damage to individuals.\" As a result, the council blacklisted The Himalayan Times and withdrew government-funded advertising.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.capitalnepal.com/detail/57463?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR0KGukcFVNiV0K6KV6IwG8ini0o8e9j_kTVBAagjLCl9V8mIsXSxTHDQFE_aem_VgGjEwlp6_MaZoD-5Msg-w","title":"प्रेस काउन्सिल नेपालले दि हिमालयन टाइम्सलाई कालोसूचीमा राख्यो","publisher":"प्रेस काउन्सिल नेपालले दि हिमालयन टाइम्सलाई कालोसूचीमा राख्यो","date":null}]}]},{"id":"statements","title":"Notable statements","items":[{"text":"In an interview with National Geographic, Puja recalled coming from a very poor background, saying, \"As a kid, I remember I didn't even have flip-flops.\"","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/adventure/2020/12/the-nepalese-mountaineer-who-is-taking-a-spiritual-view-to-new-heights","title":"How a Nepali climber with a \"freakish physiology\" stormed the world of high-altitude mountaineering","publisher":"National Geographic","date":"12 January 2021"}]},{"text":"Later, in an interview with The New York Times, she confirmed that “her experience was more disturbing than she had described in the book,” revealing that Purja had led her to the bedroom in his hotel suite, attempted to remove her clothes, touched her inappropriately, and masturbated next to her despite her repeated objections.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.nytimes.com/2024/05/31/sports/mountaineering-sexual-harassment-abuse-nims-purja.html","title":"For Female Climbers, Dangers Go Beyond Avalanches and Storms","publisher":"The New York Times","date":"31 May 2024"}]},{"text":"Purja “unequivocally denied allegations of wrongdoing” through his lawyer, and described the accounts as “defamatory and false.” In another statement, he announced that his team will be initiating legal proceedings against The New York Times.","sources":[{"url":"https://www.theguardian.com/world/2026/aug/11/nirmal-purja-obituary","title":"Nirmal Purja obituary","publisher":"The 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This page's text is shared under the same licence. Facts from Wikidata (CC0). Image: NIRMAL PURJA \"NIMS\".jpg — Iamthanes, CC BY-SA 4.0.","cite":"\"Nirmal Purja\". DigiNepal. Last updated 7 November 2026. https://diginpl.com/people/nirmal-purja. Retrieved 7 November 2026.","date_modified":"2026-11-07T06:45:13Z","facts_checked":"2026-11-07","alternates":{"html":"https://diginpl.com/people/nirmal-purja","en":"https://diginpl.com/people/nirmal-purja","ne":"https://diginpl.com/people/nirmal-purja?lang=ne"}}